Mencia red wine variety

More than twenty of the most innovative winemakers in Australia are now using Mencia.

Mencia is a red wine variety from the north western corner of Spain. In particular in the DOC regions of Bierzo, Ribiera Sacra and Valdeorras.  See this Iberian wine map to learn about Spanish wine regions

Iberian varieties used in Australia

These varieties, now used in Australia, all originated in Spain or Portugal

Albarino | Arinto | Cabernet Franc | Graciano | Grenache | Grenache gris | Mataro/Mourvedre | Mencia | Palomino | Pedro Ximenez | Prieto Picudo | Souzao | Tempranillo | Tinto Cao | Tinta Negra Molle | Touriga | Trincadeira | Verdejo | Verdelho

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You can learn about the regions of Spain and Portugal with this digital map

Learn about Iberian wine regions with this map

Click for details

Mencia became popular outside its native regions just a few years ago.  Most wines are juicy and aromatic, but the Mencia produced in the Bierzo region in the province of Leon are full-bodied and rich wines. The harsh terroir of Bierzo where the yields are low makes the difference.

This digital map of the Iberian Peninsula will help you sus out the wine regions where Mencia is grown.

In Portugal this variety is known as Jaen or Jaen de Dao.

The popular emergence of this variety is an interesting case study of the interaction of modern journalism and obscure varieties.

For decades Mencia was known only by a few locals. Most of the wine was unremarkable red or rose wines, consumed locally.  Just a few people knew that in the right conditions it could make superb wine.  Then the cat got out of the bag.  A few influential journos wrote the variety up and the electronic world lit up full of praise.

Major retailers in the UK and USA see demand rising and send buyers to get some of the latest sensation.  The limited supply of the good stuff quickly disappears but there is still plenty of the ordinary wine which complies with the DOC requirements, or at least can be represented as the real thing.  

The second wave of journalists and their readers try one or two examples of the mediocre stuff then conclude that the whole thing is a beat up.

The moral of the story is that sometimes you need to look at the broader context of an emerging variety.

In my case the first Mencia I tried, from Bierzo, was an absolute stunner of a wine. The next few cheaper examples were good but nothing special.  I realised what was happening and kept trying more.  My expectations are now more modest, but I still come across a few great Mencia wines from Spain and Portugal now a few from Australia.

Mencia wine with What Varietal is That Book

Although Mencia is the last wine on the list of varieties on this poster it is the best known of the Galician varieties listed.

Mencia in Australia

The first vintage of Mencia grapes at Bassham Wines

Mencia has only been in Australia for a few years.  The pioneer of the variety was Olivers Taranga in McLaren Vale.  They first produced a Mencia rose in 2014, and more recently they are making a dry red.

It features in the book Rare Ozzies, which includes comments about Mencia from winemakers Peter Leske of La Linea and Shane Mead of Quartz Hill

The list below shows that this exciting variety is gaining a foothold in Australia.

• Angoves Winery Riverland
• Bassham Wines Riverland
• Centennial Vineyards Southern Highlands
• Cherabino Margaret River
• CRFT Adelaide Hills
• D'Arenberg McLaren Vale
• Delatite Winery Upper Goulburn
• Hidden Creek Granite Belt
• Ivybrook Farm McLaren Vale
• La Linea Adelaide Hills
• Mac Forbes Wines Yarra Valley
• Matriarch and Rogue Clare Valley
• Ministry of Clouds McLaren Vale
• Nepenthe Adelaide Hills
• Nikola Estate Swan Valley
• Olivers Taranga McLaren Vale
• Quartz Hill Wines Pyrenees
• Ridgemill Estate Granite Belt
• Serrena Que Estate Granite Belt
• Somos McLaren Vale
• Swinny Frankland River
• Varney Wines McLaren Vale
• Wangolina Mount Benson
• Whistling Kite Wines Riverland
• Wines By Farquhar Barossa Valley
• Word of Mouth Wines Orange

At the 2023 Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show nine Mencia wines were judged. Two gold and two bronze medals were awarded. The Gold medals went to Olivers Taranga for their 2023 Mencia and Ministry of Clouds for their 2022 Mencia. Both of these wines were from McLaren Vale.

Mencia Variety. Quick facts

Mencia row label at Bassham wines

The taste of Mencia

A particularly apt description of the Mencia grape variety

At its best Mencia can be heaven in a glass. There are the firm tannins of a good Pinot Noir but with all the delicious mid-palate juicy fruit flavours of Tempranillo, Gamay or Cabernet Franc.  Look for red fruit flavours, with a herbal bouquet aromas and earthy, spicy even smoke undertones.

Some wines from this variety may be simple cafe styles for everyday drinking but carefully made Mencia from low yielding vines matches it with the best from the classic varieties.

Try Mencia with anything from a simple dish of roasted Mediterranean vegetables to rich stews and braises, maybe oxtail or lamb shanks.  If you'd like to serve Mencia with charcuterie perhaps you should include some black olive tapenade and some black pudding.

For more food suggestions see Evan Goldstein's Daring Pairing's Book

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